Learn the Process of Halftone Coloring

A couple embracing with text about halftone coloring techniques.

Incorporating color halftones into your work is an important step to creating authentic retro illustrations. Getting a handle on how to use them properly, however, might take a little more effort than you're used to.

Don't worry though! We're ready to explain the ins and outs of halftone coloring, and by the time you finish this tutorial it will seem like a piece of cake.

You'll be surprised how quickly you improve!

Watch Our Halftone Coloring Illustration Video

In this video, our guest artist, Matt, uses our ColorLab comic color kit for Procreate. You can use any tools or software you like, and these tips will (very likely) still apply. In fact, the process is almost identical for Photoshop, Affinity, and Clip Studio Paint. The point is to find what works best for you so that you can incorporate these tips in a way that will spell success.

Create in color

The ColorLab Comic Color Kit, halftone brushes that make it easy to add authentic color and shading that look like they came straight off the presses. Get it today and present your work in glorious technicolor!

Let's get to the breakdown

What are Halftones?

Close-up of two stylized heads with retro hairstyles colored using halftones

Halftones offered faithful color reproduction at a fraction of the cost.

Halftone printing is a type of reproduction that allows high-quality images to be made quickly and cheaply. Before this technique was invented, printers were mostly restricted to printing one solid block of color at a time if they wanted to keep things cost-effective.

 

Halftones broke up these blocks into dots that allowed printing light and dark tones and anything in between all at once. Printers were able to reproduce highly detailed photographs and illustrations more cheaply than they ever had been able to before.

💡But Wait There's More: Want to learn more about halftones and the history of print? Check out our Comic History blog series.

Check Your References

A vintage comic illustration of a couple sharing a passionate kiss.

Take the time to gather references to help inform your choices.

As we mentioned in our article going over inking tips, having references is a great way to identify things to help your vintage inspired work look more authentic. Take some time to pick a few references that capture the look you are going for and see what you notice.

  • How many colors are being used? Many artists back in the day were concerned with economy. A colorist working for a cheap weekly comic likely wouldn't make things harder for himself by using a wide palette.
  • How are the colors balanced? Pay attention to how much of a particular color is used and where they are in the illustration.

The more familiar you get with the work of that genre the less you'll have to rely on references, but they are a handy tool to have no matter where you are in your art journey.

Preparation

A digital artwork of a couple embracing drawn inside Procreate, with editing tools visible.

Set up your workspace early so you can work quickly and efficiently.

Before you get started coloring, you need to make sure you're setting your document up for success. Organize your artwork like this:

  • Paper Texture. Although not strictly necessary, a paper texture will warm up your work, ensure you're picking authentic colors, and give your work a real ink on paper feel.
  • Line Art. This is the foundation of your artwork and would have served as the "key" layer that all the color plates would use for alignment.
  • Red, Yellow, and Blue Ink Layers. In order for this technique to work, you'll need to make sure that all your color layers are separated. Set each layer's blend mode to Multiply; this is crucial!

Another helpful tool to have on hand is a halftone color chart. If you're following along with ColorLab, this will be something you already have provided to you. If you're using a different tool, there are examples of historic color charts that you can use as well.

💡But Wait There's More: Depending on the colors you've chosen you might also need a fourth color layer for your blacks. You could also put your black halftones on your line art layer if you wish.

Choosing a Color Palette

A digital art interface displaying color blocks and a person's headshot.

Choosing your colors is important, so take the time to find one that fits your work.

This is a crucial step. Color can either make your line art look right at home or wildly out of place. Look at your references to see what colors you notice pop up the most. Take notes if necessary or color pick from the originals. It's okay to use the same colors you find in the reference, just make it your own.

In our example, Matt is using an analagous color scheme, which means the colors are next to each other on the color wheel. There are a lot of different color schemes, so don't feel like you have to stick to just one.

Blocking-in Your Colors

Retro-style illustration of a couple embracing and about to kiss.

Block in your colors before moving to halftones to ensure they are harmonious.

Before diving straight into halftones, take the time to paint in the solid colors you've chosen so you know how everything looks together. It may seem like an unnecessary step, but it will save you the huge headache of realizing that your colors don't match and needing to start all over again.

The good news is that you don't have to be precious about it. Slap your colors on to get a feel of how everything looks, and take notes of the corresponding halftone color codes.

This leads us to the next step.

Make a Cheat Sheet

Color swatches with one highlighted, featuring a patterned texture and a suit.

Match the colors you selected to the color chart and write them down.

Despite only being comprised of 3-4 colors, the possible number of color swatches halftones are capable of producing when mixed is massive.

For this reason, it's a good idea to write down the code for each color you want to use in your illustration. Again, this might seem like an unnecessary step. Still, few things are as annoying as forgetting what color you wanted to make and having to hunt it down all over again.

Set yourself up right from the beginning by jotting them down on your canvas, in your notes application, or on a scratch piece of paper.

Choosing Your Halftones

Illustration comparing clean dots, dirty dots, and lines in ear design.

Different halftone styles will yield different results.

Not all halftones are the same. In fact, since its introduction in the late 19th century, there has been an explosion of different styles and effects that artists could choose. With ColorLab, you get the following:

  • Clean and dirty halftones. These were created to simulate different paper stocks and how ink might settle onto paper. It's also another option for introducing texture.
  • Dot and line halftones. While dot halftones have historically been the most popular, there was a lot of experimentation. Line halftones perform the same function but give your work a different look.
  • Solid and shader halftones. Because halftone printing could faithfully recreate subtle variations in tone, you're not limited to set percentages. Shader brushes introduce a whole new world of color and detail.

Whatever tools you're using, it's a good idea to take note of how your halftones look and how they stack up to your references. Pick something that is going to mimic the original and stick with it.

Applying Halftones

Brush library interface with selected brush and artwork thumbnail.

In ColorLab, each brush name corresponds to the codes in the color chart.

At first, halftone color codes might seem like a magic incantation or a bunch of nonsense, but when you break it down, it couldn't be simpler.

Every code in a color chart will have one or more letters and at times a number. If you're using ColorLab these codes will correspond to the brushes in the pack. Let's take a look at the Red codes so you can get an idea of how to read them.

  • R2: The lightest or least concentrated in 20% halftone.
  • R3: A mid-range concentration in 40% halftone.
  • R4: The darkest or most concentrated in 60% halftone.
  • R: Pure color or no halftone.

We can then apply that same logic to B or Blue, Y or Yellow, and K or Black.

So, the code R2Y2 that Matt uses to color the skin of the two people in his illustration is comprised of the Red 2 and Yellow 2 brushes.

If you're not using ColorLab you might find that their system works differently. In general, however, halftones will all use some variation of this technique.

Create in color

The ColorLab Comic Color Kit, halftone brushes that make it easy to add authentic color and shading that look like they came straight off the presses. Get it today and present your work in glorious technicolor!

Bonus Effects and Finishing Touches

Brush library interface with various brush options displayed on a digital canvas.

Use print defects and other visual effects sparingly for a more authentic and attractive look.

Much of the comic artwork created during the mid-century was made quickly, with little time allotted for detailed coloring. That doesn't mean you can't add some in and stay authentic. The key here is subtlety. Review your references to see how you can tastefully incorporate shading, white highlights, or other finishing touches like print defects.

Final Thoughts

Coloring your retro work authentically can seem intimidating, but when we break it down, it couldn't be easier. A few colors unlock almost unlimited swatches that are true to the era and quick to whip up.

Study your references, note what colors were used, and incorporate them into your own work. Now that you know how to break down the color codes, you'll be surprised how quickly your art comes together.

And some finishing touches like shading, highlights, and print defects (sparingly) to bring your work to life.


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